The Cycle Pretty Tourist: “Bon Bike Voyage!”...From Nice in France…
- Bea Gonzalez
- Aug 23, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: Apr 1
Last November, my best friend Lucia invited me to visit Nice, France, where she had recently relocated to study marine conservation. Lucia and I have been friends for more than a decade! Over the course of our friendship, we've travelled to various destinations together, including spending an entire year in Australia. Despite now living in different cities, our bond remains as strong as ever. So when she offered to host me in Nice, I didn't think twice...
I have always wanted to explore the French Riviera ever since I saw its blue coast during a family road trip from Spain to Italy. The beauty of the area made a lasting impact on me!
8 Simple Steps to Explore Nice on Two Wheels
Cycling around Nice was an unforgettable experience, and I hope it inspires you to do the same. Here's how I rented a bike and planned my route to explore beautiful sights.
Step 1: Learn About the Culture and History of Your Destination
As I prepared for my trip to Nice, I took a moment to reflect on the city's rich history.
Its story begins with the arrival of the Phocaeans of Marseille, a colony of Greek mariners who settled in the region around 350 BCE.
This area was previously inhabited by the Ligurian tribe from nearby Liguria, Italy. Upon their arrival, the Phocaeans defeated the local Ligurians and named the city Níkaia, in honor of the Greek Goddess of victory, Nike.
From then on, Nice became an important hub of trade and culture in the region. It fell under the rule of the Kingdom of Sardinia in 1388 and over the centuries, it experienced periods of French dominion and brief independence, only to be returned to the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia thereafter (Fun fact: this is where our photographer/videographer, Roberta, comes from). Only in 1860 was Nice ceded to France. This is why Nice is such a blend of Italian and French culture, which is reflected in its cuisine and architecture...
Today, Nice is a popular destination known for its rich culture and perfect weather. With sunny days and mild temperatures, even in November, I knew exploring it by bicycle would be fantastic. Lucia had classes for a couple of days, so I decided to visit the city by myself on two wheels. Nice proved to be an ideal destination for cycling tourism! If you would like to know more about visiting tourist sites by bike, check our previous blog post:
Step 2: Hire a Bike with Veloblue...
The first thing I looked into was bicycle rental options. I came across Veloblue, the local bike-sharing system, which appeared to be the most straightforward choice. I had to register online, which proved to be quite complicated. After several unsuccessful attempts, I decided to go to the office in person. The staff there spoke English and they helped me sort everything out.
In the end, I used my friend's transport card to register, as it proved to be the easier option. Once set up on the system, retrieving a bike from the rack and returning it was very easy. I encountered a few faulty bikes along the way, but fortunately, there were plenty of stations available throughout the city where I could easily leave my bike and pick up a new one...
The overall process of using Veloblue remained simple and convenient! All the bicycles are blue (a nod to the name 'Velobleu,' where 'velo' means bicycle and 'bleu' means blue), which perfectly complement the serene backdrop of the sea and sky!
I had to remember that in France, traffic operates on the right instead of the left. Since I'm originally from Spain and that's where I learned to drive, it wasn't a major issue for me, but I made sure to keep it in mind throughout my journey.
Step 3: Choose the Best Cycling Lanes and Routes
After deciding which must-see spots I wanted to visit, following recommendations from my friend, I then planned the route using Google maps and a Velobleu map I found online (which isn’t official)...
Nice is quite a small city, making it easy to navigate. The cycling infrastructure in the areas I explored is safe, with lanes well separated from traffic and dedicated traffic lights for bicycles. I found cycling particularly pleasant in November, as there were fewer tourists around. Clearly this infrastructure is well used by locals and tourists, as I encountered many cyclists...
I picked up a bicycle at the train station and cycled all the way down to the city's popular promenade to admire the sea. It's called Promenade des Anglais, meaning "Walkway of the English"and there's an interesting story behind its name!
Starting in the second half of the 19th century, the English aristocracy began spending their winters in Nice. There was a particularly harsh winter in 1820 that attracted an influx of beggars to the city. Led by Reverend Lewis Way, the Anglican Church advocated for self-sufficiency over handouts, and decided to finance the construction of a seaside promenade, giving jobs at the construction site to those that needed them. It was initially known as the "Camin deis Anglés" in local dialect (the “English Way”), and then renamed "Promenade des Anglais”.
The Promenade stretches for seven kilometres, from the airport, to Colline du Château, a hill featuring castle remains. Cycling along the seaside was calming and filled me with joy. I even saw a carousel on the street!
Step 4: Discover the Local Flower Market
While cycling along the Promenade, I made a stop at Cours Saleya (which roughly translates to "Sun Street") to explore the popular market: ”Marché aux Fleurs”.
This open-air market has been in operation for centuries and has evolved over time. Initially, it was primarily a flower market, which is why it is known as the "Marché aux Fleurs” (Flower market in English). Throughout the years, it has transformed into a more diverse marketplace, now featuring fresh produce, local farm goods, handcrafted products and even paintings! It is open every day, except Monday. I would advise bringing euros, as some market stalls may not accept cards.
While browsing, I couldn't resist buying a lovely bouquet of flowers to give to my friend as a small gesture of gratitude for hosting me in this charming city. The bouquet was a mix of different colourful roses, statices and gerberas...
After exploring the renowned market at Cours Saleya, and taking some pictures on my film camera, I continued my journey along the Promenade, now with beautiful flowers adorning my bike basket, right next to my Original Duckhead parasol...
...Which became such an invaluable thing to have with me during the intense midday sun.
Step 5: Take a Break at a Cyclist´s Café
I needed to recharge before continuing my journey, so I decided to make a quick stop at a cycling café called "Cafe du Cycliste", which translates to "Cyclist's Café" in English.
Step 6: Climb to the Top of Colline du Château for Stunning Views
My original plan was to cycle all the way up to the Colline du Château park, on the top of a hill, and admire the waterfall and the castle remains. However, it turned out to be more challenging than I had anticipated. Despite my efforts, I couldn't locate a cyclist-friendly path to the top. I asked several people there if they knew how to get to the top by bike, but nobody knew. Nonetheless, the people I encountered along the way were incredibly friendly, and we easily conversed in English. I even met an Englishman, who had been living in Nice for many years!
After parking my bike using the bike's built-in lock, I continued my journey on foot. The views were breath taking, an incredible panorama of the city rooftops and the beautiful coastline!
Not only is it beautiful, but it also holds historical importance. Originally, the city of Nizza stood here, protected by a fortress and a castle. Legend has it that this fortress was among the most formidable along the Mediterranean and it served as a strategic military outpost for various rulers throughout history. That was until King Louis XIV's French army invaded it! It's said that victory came by chance when a cannonball struck a small window, igniting the ammunition store and breaching the fortress walls. It was all reduced to ruins, marking the end of its military significance.
Today, all that remains of the ancient fortress and castle are the picturesque ruins and scenic park. There is also a beautiful artificial waterfall, creating a tranquil atmosphere. However, I can imagine that during the summer months, it may become less tranquil.
After a couple of hours, I felt relaxed and ready to descend the hill and return to Promenade des Anglais. The sunset began, and cycling downhill with those views felt truly magical.
Step 7: Make a Pitstop by Villa Massena and Iconic Le Negresco Hotel...
As I was cycling back to one of the bike stations, I decided to stop at Villa Massena. It was built in the late 19th century as a private residence for the Masséna family...
Today, it is a museum that showcases the history and heritage of Nice and the French Riviera...
It was closed when I arrived, but I strolled around the lovely gardens with my bicycle. I found a bench and sat down to reflect on the day. From the gardens, I could see the Negresco, the most famous hotel in Nice...
In 1913, Le Negresco opened its doors, immediately attracting high-profile guests from around the world, such as The painter Dali, Princess Grace of Monaco, the Beatles, Louis Armstrong, Elton John. Royalty- Queen Elizabeth II, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
The hotel also has a remarkable art collection, with over 6,000 pieces spanning centuries. From rooms dedicated to historical figures to contemporary "Street Art" spaces. Unfortunately, Le Negresco is only open to guests, and during my single attempt to enter, I was politely escorted out.
As I was admiring the iconic hotel, I received a message from my friend letting me know she had finished her class...
Step 8: End Your Day with Good Company and Great Food
I left the bike at the station and headed to meet up with her for dinner, bringing with me the flowers that had luckily survived the day!
Back at my friend's house, I noticed the vintage vase I had bought her five years ago. It seemed like the perfect spot for the flowers. The next morning, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast with the flowers decorating the table and the sun shining through the window!
Later, we visited the Marc-Chagall Museum and its gardens, where my friend took this lovely picture of me channelling my inner French!
We also visited the neighbouring towns, Antibes and Ville Franche-sur-mer too, where I took this lovely picture with the Original Duckhead Umbrella which is also designed to be a parasol...
Overall, I had a great experience exploring the French riviera. I would definitely recommend exploring Nice by bicycle, as it was such an enjoyable experience. Nice certainly lived up to my expectations, and I'm already looking forward to returning soon!
Have you explored the French Riviera? Share your experiences or tips in the comments!
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